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Why the lip pencil is back in vogue

The lip pencil, once a staple of '90s beauty routines, is undergoing a big renaissance. Surprised? If you think it’s the cosmetic most likely to be left languishing in a pile of ancient shavings at the bottom of your makeup bag, think again. You might want to replace it.


A woman using a lip pencil to outline the shape of her lips

Probably one of the most unassuming cosmetics a makeup lover can own, the humble lip pencil has evolved from a simple liner to a versatile tool that can do almost everything for the lips. And that’s why the pencil is now so popular it is even sold in bundles. 


A lip pencil defines, shapes, enhances and, now, even adds a pop of colour to the pout. Perfect for contouring, it delivers more than just precision and definition. Yes, it is unparalleled for delivering clean, sharp lines. It’s the go-to tool if you want to stop lipstick from ‘bleeding’. But it is also great as a lip stain. 


If you look at what brands are currently pushing, you will see the lip pencil edging in alongside ever-popular blush. Beauty Bay upped the game with its super-soft offerings that have morphed into collections. As well as single pencils, you can now purchase bundles. The Nude Collection, comprising four liners, has been a big hit. 


More recently, PLouise has gone further. Its creamy liners, which retail at £12 each, are now available in Take Me Away bags which comprise no less than 10 pencils for £22. These liners, which come in gradient-toned pink and white packaging with a hint of gold, are being hailed as the true all-rounders.


Even budget brand W7 has attracted a new fan base because of its stellar lip liners.


Why the switch back to a pencil - a product first used by flappers and made popular by stars of the silent screen? If you are pondering that question, I can answer it.


Lip liner pencils on a pink background with a lipstick stain

Why is the lip pencil trending?


The success of the modern lip pencil can be attributed to richer, creamier formulas made with skin-loving ingredients. They literally glide on, with none of the dragging or dryness that made them an acquired taste a quarter of a century ago. If the ’90s feels like yesterday, let me assure you that a lot has happened in the two decades or more since the liner was last in vogue.


As well as richer formulas that are kind to lips, the pencil has become a must-have now that lip products, in general, are the height of fashion. Where a simple swipe of matte nude may have cut it five or six years ago, a full-on lip look is what trends dictate in the post-pandemic period. After more than a year of mouths being hidden behind masks, they are now being celebrated with oodles of contouring and bolder shades.


A pencil is still considered the top tool for enhancing the shape of the mouth but it is also being used to ‘fill in’ the lips. With the rise of the two-tone look and purse strings hanging by a thread after the cost of living crisis, the pencil is a cheaper way to add a hint of colour or create a smudge-proof base for lipstick. ‘Staining’ the lips with a pencil is especially chic.


Lip pencil collections allow beauty fans to create the perfect shape with a dark shade and then ‘fill in’ with a lighter shade from the same colour range. Mixing and matching has become a craze. The ombré effect is especially popular. As well as delivering on-trend shade variations, it brings depth and definition to the lips.


Glosses and oils are commonly used as toppers over pencils. These ‘finishing’ cosmetics are currently also big sellers. That's the thing with lip liner shades - you can decide the finish, be it matte or gloss. You aren’t stuck with just one or the other.


As well as offering versatility, pencil collections are money-saving. If you use more than one colour on your pout, they’ll set you back a lot less than the same number of lipsticks. What’s more, with a pencil, you rule when it comes to the size of the nib.


Of course, the liner still performs when it comes to traditional uses.


A nude lip pencil and shavings on an orange background

Traditional lip liner uses


The lip pencil is still the most popular base for lipstick - even with the advent of modern alternatives. Its claim to fame is that it makes lipstick stay put and helps to prevent colour-fading.


More than that, the pencil can create the illusion of fuller or bigger lips - by outlining them with the right shade choice. It’s quick and easy to use too, with no mess. 


Lip pencils have always been formulated to resist smudging and provide all-day wear. They are the original kiss-proof makeup product, with many formulas being waterproof. 


Will the lip pencil stay in fashion? 


Demand for the lip pencil is expected to increase. This isn’t a trend that is going to disappear anytime soon. In fact, market analysts predict that sales of pencil liners will rise by more than 11% over the next few years. This makes it a good investment for anyone who wears lip makeup. 


Unlike the twist-up liner, the pencil can be customised to offer varying nib sizes - something to consider the next time you are shopping around for a lip liner. Just don’t forget to buy a sharpener, if you haven’t already got one!


This trend caught me by surprise. With more beauty lovers using brushes to apply makeup, I thought liner palettes might become a thing. I was wrong. The lip pencil has risen like a phoenix to take centre stage after a very long hiatus from popularity.

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