I get asked this question all the time. The answer is pretty straightforward, but to fully understand what it means takes some explaining. So, yes, skincare products can make you look younger, but…
Don’t expect to knock more than five to 10 years off your face with over-the-counter products. Disappointed? Don’t be, because it’s not just fine lines and wrinkles that age us. Dull, dry skin and hyperpigmentation, along with unflattering textures, are also culprits. Each of these can be tackled quite successfully at home.
One of the reasons women in my age group (late 50s) turn to skincare is to rewind the clock. The fact that so many expect overnight miracles is not surprising when you look at the, frankly, outrageous claims made by many anti-ageing skincare brands. Apart from almost deliberately bamboozling consumers with nonsensical ingredient names, other claims too can be taken out of context or misunderstood.
In this feature, I am going to talk you through what good skincare can do to help you regain a radiant, youthful face and also explain why topical treatments have cut-off levels. I will give you tips to help you minimise under-eye issues, dry or rough skin and hyperpigmentation. First, I want to explain why skincare products have limitations.
Limitations of skincare products v invasive treatments
While skincare products offer numerous benefits for maintaining healthy skin, they often fall short in achieving the same dramatic results as invasive treatments. This disparity stems from fundamental differences in how these two approaches interact with the skin.
The dermal layer
Skincare products primarily target the epidermis, the outermost layer of the skin. They can hydrate, exfoliate and improve skin tone, but their penetration is limited. This is important to remember when you are considering skincare purchases and brand claims.
Invasive treatments, like chemical peels, laser resurfacing and dermabrasion, penetrate deeper into the dermis, the middle layer of the skin. This deeper penetration allows for more significant changes in skin texture, wrinkles and pigmentation. I will come back to chemical peels later on, because there are safe alternatives you can try at home.
Collagen and elastin production
Skincare products’ ingredients, such as retinol and vitamin C, can stimulate collagen and elastin production. However, their effects are often more gradual and less pronounced than those of invasive treatments.
Invasive treatments, particularly those involving energy-based technologies, can directly stimulate collagen and elastin production. This can lead to a more significant reduction in wrinkles and improved skin firmness.
The removal of excess tissue
Skincare products cannot physically remove excess tissue, such as that associated with acne scars or large pores.
Invasive treatments, like excision, punch biopsies and laser ablation, can effectively remove excess tissue, resulting in a more sculpted and refined appearance.
Correction of structural issues
Skincare products can help to improve the appearance of skin imperfections, but they cannot fundamentally alter the underlying structure of the skin.
Invasive treatments, like rhinoplasty, blepharoplasty and facelifts, can address structural issues, such as a prominent nose, sagging eyelids or facial sagging.
Treatment of skin conditions
Skincare products can help to manage certain skin conditions, such as acne and eczema, but they may not be sufficient for more severe or resistant cases.
Invasive treatments, such as light therapy and medication injections, can be more effective in treating medical conditions like psoriasis, rosacea and hyperhidrosis.
What about the risks when compared to the benefits?
Skincare products generally have a low risk profile and are suitable for most individuals. That doesn’t mean to say you shouldn’t carry out patch tests before using new products. It’s always better to be safe than sorry!
Invasive treatments may involve a higher risk of side effects, such as redness, swelling and scarring. However, they can also offer more dramatic results.
It is important to note that skincare products and invasive treatments can complement each other. Many people use skincare products to maintain their skin health between invasive procedures. However, for those seeking more significant or immediate results, invasive treatments may be the best option. Ultimately, the choice between skincare products and invasive treatments depends on individual needs, goals and risk tolerance. There’s also the matter of costs. If you can’t afford invasive treatments, or feel they aren’t for you, skincare products are the way to go.
Time-defying skincare: products that work
While ageing is a natural process and affects us all, many seek to minimise its visible effects on the skin. Fortunately, a variety of skincare products can help to turn back the clock. They can reduce the appearance of wrinkles, fine lines and other signs of ageing. It’s important to remember that, while there are products that work, you need to also protect your skin from further damage by applying SPF every single day, no matter the season.
Anti-ageing skincare doesn’t have to be expensive. Here are some key ingredients and product types to consider:
Retinoids: Retinoids, derived from vitamin A, are considered gold standard ingredients for anti-ageing. They stimulate collagen production, improve skin texture and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Products containing retinol or its prescription-strength counterpart, retinoic acid, can be highly effective. I recommend retinol skincare products for under the eyes and as overnight face treatments.
Antioxidants: Antioxidants protect the skin from environmental damage caused by free radicals, which can contribute to premature ageing. Look for products containing ingredients like vitamin C, vitamin E, green tea extract, and resveratrol. These antioxidants can help to brighten the complexion, reduce hyperpigmentation and improve skin firmness.
Peptides: Peptides are short chains of amino acids that can stimulate collagen and elastin production. They help to improve skin elasticity and reduce the appearance of wrinkles. Products containing matrix metalloproteinase (MMP) inhibitors or growth factors can be effective in targeting these areas.
Hyaluronic acid: Hyaluronic acid is a naturally occurring substance found in the skin that helps to retain moisture. As we age, our skin's hyaluronic acid levels decline, leading to dryness and wrinkles. Products containing hyaluronic acid can help to hydrate the skin, plump up fine lines and improve overall skin texture.
Exfoliants: Regular exfoliation can help to remove dead skin cells, revealing smoother, brighter skin. Gentle chemical exfoliants containing alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) or beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) can be particularly effective. However, it's important to use exfoliants sparingly and to choose products that are suitable for your skin type. Gentle, at home peels, are very effective exfoliants. I particularly recommend ones with fruit acids. Always read instructions carefully and carry out a patch test before carrying out a peel at home.
Lifestyle factors: While skincare products can help to address the visible signs of ageing, lifestyle factors also play a crucial role. Eating a healthy diet, getting enough sleep and managing stress can help to promote overall skin health. So too can drinking plenty of water.
Consistency is crucial when it comes to anti-ageing skincare. It may take several weeks or months to see visible results. Consult a dermatologist if you have concerns about your skin or are unsure about which products to choose.
Anti-ageing skincare products that work
Let serums do most of the work - other than exfoliation. Don’t be afraid to layer your serums at night so that you can target multiple concerns at once. Always use the lightest serum first and the heaviest one last. By doing this, you can target fine lines, hyperpigmentation and dryness at the same time. Finish off with a rich moisturiser that will lock the serums in and stop them from evaporating before they have penetrated the outer layers of your skin.
In the mornings, opt for an hydrating serum such as hyaluronic acid and a light day cream with a high SPF.
Don’t forget that cleansing and toning are vital. Always double cleanse in the evening - use a good balm and then a light, hydrating gel facial wash. Tone according to your skincare needs. If you are worried about dark spots, opt for a vitamin C or niacinamide product. To tackle irritation or redness, choose something soothing, such as a cica product or a toner that includes aloe vera.
Choose a retinol serum for under the eyes and use morning and night. Start with a 0.3% low strength and work up to 1%. Avoid instant eye lift products - they are expensive and often leave a horrible white residue. They are also unsuitable to be used with most base makeup, including liquid and cream foundations.
Another quick tip: Don’t be afraid to use setting powder to give your makeup look a flawless finish. Just ensure you only use a fine dusting and follow up with setting spray. I use a spray twice, because it helps to eliminate a powdery face.
I’m sorry that there isn’t a magic wand to rewind the clock. If only… The truth is, effective skincare takes effort and patience. However, if you are anything like me, the whole process does become enjoyable and a relaxing part of the daily routine.
If you have any questions, don’t be afraid to ask. I am always happy to answer readers’ questions. Comment below for a quick reply or, alternatively, reach out to me via the Contact page.
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