It seems weird to use the phrase ‘makeup subscription box’ in the same sentence as the words cancel culture, but here we are… Cancel culture, a term often used to describe the rapid and widespread censure of public figures for perceived offensive or harmful actions, has become a potent force in contemporary society. A phenomenon fuelled by social media, it has the power to topple careers, brands and even entire industries. But is the beauty industry, specifically makeup subscription boxes, immune to its wrath?
At first glance, it might seem unlikely. Beauty is often seen as a realm of escapism; a place where individuals can experiment and express themselves without fear of judgement. However, as the beauty industry has evolved into a platform for social and political commentary, it has become increasingly susceptible to scrutiny.
Makeup subscription boxes, once hailed as the most cost-effective and exciting way to discover new products, have become microcosms of the beauty industry's larger issues. These boxes curate a selection of beauty items, sometimes including products from various brands. While this diversity can be seen as a positive, it also means that subscription box companies risk being associated with brands that come under fire.
One potential bone of contention is the inclusion of brands owned or founded by individuals with controversial pasts. If a brand's founder is accused of misconduct, the subscription box company faces a dilemma. To continue offering the brand's products could be seen as endorsing their actions, while removing the brand entirely might alienate customers who are loyal to the product.
Moreover, the products themselves can be a source of controversy. Ingredients, animal testing and labour practices are just a few issues that can ignite public outrage. Subscription box companies must carefully vet their offerings to avoid backlash. A single product that raises ethical concerns can overshadow the rest of the box and damage the company's reputation.
Why pick on the makeup subscription box?
Social media has amplified the impact of cancel culture on the beauty industry. Consumers are increasingly vocal about their values and expectations, and they are not afraid to use their channels to hold brands accountable. A single negative post or tweet can quickly snowball into a full-blown crisis, forcing companies to respond swiftly and decisively.
However, it's essential to understand that not all criticism is warranted. While cancel culture can be a powerful tool for holding individuals and companies to account, it can also be used to silence legitimate voices and stifle innovation. It's crucial to distinguish between genuine calls for accountability and attempts to sideline diversification.
In reality, beauty lovers rarely cancel a makeup subscription box based on principled values. The truth is, we’ve all got so much makeup now that many people feel the need to take a break. Adding to an already overwhelming pile of cosmetics has lost its kick. Limited spare cash has been a real issue too, and that has been a further driver of cancelled subscriptions. Hard up influencers aren’t the only ones turning off the tap to established brands.
Other tipping points include delayed deliveries and repeat products. The makeup addict just isn’t going to stand for it. Consumers are looking for fast delivery, flexibility and diversity - and, if that’s not on offer, who can blame them for losing interest?
In general, the clamour for beauty mystery boxes is on the wane. After a sharp rise in interest in August 2022*, the trend almost flatlined - save for a minor peak in Spring 2024. A handful of brands, particularly independents, are holding their own and increasing sales, but many have seen a decline.
While the die-hard eyeshadow addict is going to cling onto their palettes until the bitter end, Gen Z is said to be giving them a wide berth. One-pop shots of colour have (hopefully only temporarily) replaced more complex looks - prompting a discussion about the future of eyeshadow in general. If brands thought duochromes, singles and mini palettes would be their saving grace, it looks as though they were mistaken. Eye pigments have taken a double hit, spurred on by social media posts bemoaning the value of XL palettes. 'They are too big to store' and 'They cost too much' are the most common gripes.
Mascara, lip gloss and blush are the current trends, and makeup subscription boxes are starting to reflect that.
Minimalism is creeping into makeup. There is plenty of evidence to suggest that even collectors are paring back their hauls. Just look at all those declutter videos appearing on YouTube. While storage has always been an issue, it’s suddenly something that is starting to niggle once ardent hoarders. ‘Less is more’ is resonating. No matter how good the formula or how appealing on the eye, palettes that people just don’t reach for are destined to become cast-offs; they aren’t being allowed to gather dust in the same way that they did five or 10 years ago.
Who wants yet more makeup to find space for? And who really wants to spend money on products they may not even like enough to try?
Budget brands could be the biggest losers as shopping habits change. There is a shift towards quality over quantity at the very time independent brands are turning heads. Are you spending more on less products? Plenty of consumers are. That's not to say there is movement towards extortionately priced makeup, just cosmetics that have great ingredients and perform well.
The future of the makeup subscription box
The beauty industry, including makeup subscription boxes, is not immune to the impact of cancel culture. While the potential for backlash is real, it's also an opportunity for companies to demonstrate their commitment to ethical and responsible practices. By carefully curating their offerings, engaging in open dialogue with consumers and responding thoughtfully to criticism, makeup subscription boxes can navigate the challenges of cancel culture and emerge stronger.
Palettes featuring random shades that don't fit a colour story, poor delivery timescales and multiple repeats are all no-nos going forward.
Ultimately, the success of these companies will depend on their ability to balance the desire for inclusivity and diversity with the need to avoid associating with brands or practices that could damage their reputation.
What do you think?
*Google Trends
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