Are serum sticks worth buying?

There are a million and one skincare products vying for space on our bathroom shelves, making purchase decisions harder than a cross-Channel swim without Ocean Grease. Serum sticks are the latest items to be thrown into the mix. Confused about their benefits - not to mention potential drawbacks? Here’s what you need to know…

First up, let’s tackle the marketing messages that are probably coming at you right now. Have you been told that serum sticks are a mess-free and portable alternative to liquid serums sold in dropper bottles? Brands want you to know that a stick is not just convenient; it offers targeted application of skin treatments.    

SPF sticks are becoming popular, but so too are serum sticks.

Mess-free? Tick. You aren’t going to accidentally knock it over and spill £20-worth of liquid into your lap. 

Portable? Tick. Most serum sticks are small and will easily fit into a handbag, making them ideal for skincare-on-the-go or travel.

Targeted skincare? Yes, but… Isn’t your under-eye cream? And what about pimple patches or any skincare product, come to that? It targets wherever you put it!

What are serum sticks?

A serum stick is a compact, solid skincare formula sold in a twist-up applicator. Popular in Asia, it eliminates the risk of spills and leaks, making a stick an ideal travel companion. The solid formula also bypasses the need for cotton pads or messy droppers, simplifying application and minimising waste. 

This ease of use is particularly beneficial for those with busy lifestyles or those who prefer a minimalist skincare routine.You can precisely apply the product to specific areas of concern, such as fine lines around the eyes, dark spots or dry patches. This localised approach allows for more efficient delivery of active ingredients, potentially maximising their effectiveness.

Some (not all) serum sticks boast a higher concentration of active ingredients compared to traditional liquid serums. (For context, most of the sticks I’ve tried have had similar or less concentrations of active ingredients, not more.) 

One notable benefit of a stick is that its solid form tends to create a barrier on the skin, which can help seal in moisture and enhance the absorption of other skincare products. This occlusive effect can be particularly beneficial for individuals with dry or dehydrated skin.

Serum sticks are an exciting departure from traditional skincare products - especially if you travel a lot or don't have time for complicated routines.

Serum stick drawbacks

Nothing is perfect. Serum sticks do have some drawbacks and they include the potential for uneven application. They can also pull or drag on the skin, if the formula is too dry. Friction is something you want to avoid, particularly under the eyes or on skin that is already irritated.

Hydrating and brightening sticks are hitting the mainstream, including Skin Gym’s Vitamin C Workout Stick and Dr Jart’s Brightamin Brightening Eye Serum Stick. Other brands are venturing into ‘rejuvenating sticks’ and even sticks that minimise pores while delivering gentle exfoliation. SPF sticks have already cornered a niche in the market. Pretty soon, there will be a stick for every skin care concern. However, it’s worth noting that not all traditional active ingredients are suitable for use in a solid product.

Onto hygiene... Yes, the twist-up applicator minimises contact with fingers, but the surface of the stick itself can become a breeding ground for bacteria if not cleaned regularly. This is especially true if the stick is exposed to heat or humidity. The potential for product build-up on the skin is also a factor. The occlusive nature of serum sticks, while beneficial for hydration, can also trap dirt, oil and dead skin cells, potentially leading to clogged pores and breakouts, particularly for those with oily or acne-prone skin.

What about cost effectiveness?

This is a ‘depends what you buy’ answer. Most sticks with premium ingredients cost more than a bog standard serum. Some can set you back over £40. Which begs the question: how beneficial are the ones costing as little as £8 or less? How much (or little) active ingredients do they contain? Some consumers claim that a stick works out more expensive than a traditional serum, mostly due to uneven application, small size and loss of product when cleaning.

PLouise has launched Make It Pop Skin Pops serum sticks. With four in a pack for £22, they work out at just over a fiver each. Each stick has been formulated to tackle specific concerns and is fragranced. For such a low price, I thought it would be interesting to see if they do more than simply smell nice.

The Make It Pop Skin Pops set.

What’s in the pack?

Rejuvenating stick for targeted anti-ageing skincare - as well as containing popular moisturising ingredients, this stick also contains retinyl palmitate. While much less potent than retinol, the stable organic compound is commonly found in skincare formulas. Note: This stick is not suitable for use by children.

Refining, pore minimising stick - this stick is formulated to even out the skin tone while reducing the appearance of pores. Interestingly, it is said to provide gentle exfoliation. I was hoping to use this as a blurring treatment, but that doesn’t look too promising. I will see if it minimises pores. 

Brightening stick - this formula refreshes the skin as it brightens. Ideal for morning use, it protects against unstable molecules and promotes a naturally radiant glow. This may be my best bet for use under makeup.

Hydrating stick - formulated to soothe and soften the skin with deep moisturisation. Recommended for use on-the-go.

Full ingredients are available on the brand’s website. 

There’s quite a lot to digest there. I plan to use the rejuvenating stick at night and the refining and brightening stick in the mornings. The hydrating and refining sticks will be used on an ‘as required’ basis.

My initial thoughts are… While they may turn out to be pleasant to use, my fear is that they aren’t going to contain enough active ingredients to make much of a difference to my skin. 

For now, I’m waiting for the results of patch tests.

Once I have been using the sticks for a week or two, I will update you on my experience. Come back for a progress report!

UPDATE: I've been using the serum sticks for just over a week, and this has been my experience... The sticks I've used consistently are the rejuventating and brightening ones. Apart from quite enjoying the experience of using the products, they do seem to have made a difference to my skin - already! I've been applying the rejuvenating stick to my forehead and it seems to have ironed out some wrinkles. The brightening stick smells divine - of coffee. I'm using that stick on my cheeks and the skin does appear brighter and clearer.

The remaining two sticks - pore perfecting and hydrating - I've used on an ad hoc basis. Going forward, I can only see myself using the hydrating stick during 'down days', when I'm not leaving the house. The reason for this is that I do wear makeup for work and for any other activity that it outside my home. I would worry that the stick would remove or mess up my makeup. It just isn't practical for me, other than those days when I'm at home and fancy a bit of a hydration boost.

The pore stick I'm sure I will use more.

Overall, I think these serum sticks represent excellent value for money. They do work and, at £22 for all four, I think they are a bargain.

*As with all skincare products, always patch test new serum sticks before applying directly to the face. If you are in any doubt, seek expert advice. 

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